Bogota to Quito
11th – 27th May:
Eventually it was my time to leave Bogota. I loved the experience and could easily have stayed longer but I missed the road and being on my overland journey. Catching up with the crew from Expedition Marooned was my perfect excuse to leave. Andy and Mary (known by MH) were in a similar vehicle to me doing a similar journey (from California). When I first learned of their journey on Instagram, I reached out to them and we’d stayed in touch. I knew it was only a matter of time before they caught up to me so eventually when they were within a day’s drive, I reached out. We agreed to meet up in Salento to a hit a trail I’d be hanging out for – a dirt track that connected Salento to Machin near to Ibague in Colombia that passes through the same wax palms as the Valle de Cocora.
Upon forming this plan, I said my goodbyes in Bogota and spent the next day on the six-hour drive to meet Andy and MH in Salento. Successfully rendezvousing at a local restaurant, we grabbed a room at a nearby hacienda, shared stories and notes of our respective journeys over some beers and readied ourselves for a couple days off road.
My Discovery 2 on the left and the Expedition Marooned LR3 on the right
MH and I (Photo credit: Expedition Marooned)
Andy: I didn’t seem to have a decent front-on photo of Andy to introduce him so I borrowed this from his Facebook profile - taken a month later as he walked the Uyuni Salt flats in Bolivia to raise money for a good cause (Support Our Paras)
With this trail recommended to me by my French overlander friends a month earlier, the first day was a stunning drive and lived up to expectations. It wound its way along a valley filled with wax palms and was just an endless series of stunning views. Reaching our destination of the Machin Volcano, we found a farmhouse nestled in what I presume was the crater of the volcano and asked the owners if they would let us camp the night there. They opened up their fences and guided us to the best view of the property to make camp for the night.
We parked the cars overlooking a valley, nestled in amongst cows, watched the young kids from the property expertly ride their horses, then set up camp and got a fire going. We all agreed that finding remote locations like this was what the overlanding experience was all about. We cooked, drank and chatted about future plans of where we dreamed future expeditions might take us.
With another car in convoy makes it easier to get better photos or at least a different perspective (I can see what my ass looks like). This is one Expedition Marooned took of me crossing a bridge on the early stages of our trail drive
Making progress down the Salento-Toche trail
Lunch stop: Andy and I took this opportunity to compare machetes. His was bigger
Our camp at the Machin finca, perched above a valley underneath the peak of a volcano
Andy and I at camp on the first night chatting about Land Rovers most likely (Photo Credit: Expedition Marooned)
MH and Andy enjoying their dinner while the kids (and I mean like 5 year olds) herded the cattle on horseback below
The second day started off just as well and we had a great morning of driving in convoy through picturesque terrain. Our luck ended when the Expedition Marooned Discovery 3 (LR3) had an issue with the air suspension system and the car lowered to a point that the car was sitting on the tires and not propped up at all by the suspension. Andy figured it was an issue with the compressor and set about pulling out the unit. We realised once out that the compressor dryer had blown wide open and the reservoir wouldn’t hold any air so it wouldn’t be able to maintain the pressure to keep the air suspension inflated.
After trying a few times to repair it with a combination of adhesives we had on hand and cable ties (zip ties), we realised that the issue wasn’t going to be solved on the side of the mountain. Thankfully the Land Rover community in South America is strong and we sent out a message for help on WhatsApp to the group and received several responses immediately from people relatively nearby that may be able to help. Within an hour, we had a lead on a part in Bogota which could be couriered by bus and arrive that night at the nearest town only an hour away.
With not much more able to be done, MH and I headed towards the bus terminal and Andy stayed with the car. The part was due to arrive at 10pm but was slightly delayed. We resolved to head to a hotel for a good night’s sleep, pick it up early and re-join Andy as soon as we could the next morning.
Big thanks to Javier Nieto and Alejo Talbot from the Land Rovers de las Americas community. Not only did they work together to get us the part within 10-hours of the problem initially developing, they did it out of the goodness of their hearts and didn’t ask for anything in return.
Unfortunately, due to slightly different specs between North American and South American compressor units, the piece didn’t fit exactly and we were forced to call a tow truck. With the car off the mountain and back in Cajamarca, the nearest town, we settled into a clean and simple hotel to make a new plan. Ultimately, Expedition Marooned would stay there the best part of a week waiting for the right replacement part. Knowing there was nothing I could do, I set off to explore Nevado del Ruiz and Medellin while they solved their mechanical issues.
The Expedition Marooned LR3 had lost all compression to the air suspension, rendering the car undriveable
The guilty offender: The dryer on the air compressor had completely come apart
Much to the dismay of the people’s house we broke down in front of, this became camp for 24-hours for Andy while MH and I went into town to get the spare part and had a fried chicken meal while Andy ate noodles and watched YouTube videos of Ewan McGregor’s Long Way Down
Cable ties, super glue and gasket maker trying their best to hold the dryer together. While it didn’t explode, neither did it maintain enough air pressure to inflate the suspension
MH in possession of the spare part we needed, thanks to members of the Land Rover de las Americas group coming to the rescue
Unfortunately the part didn’t fit so a tow truck comes to collet the LR3 from the side of the mountain
Nevado del Ruiz:
While they solved their problems, my goal was explore a mountain area that I’d see on a Top Gear Colombia special called Nevado del Ruiz which is a volcano in the Los Nevados National Park and has a glacier you can drive most of the way to. It took me a whole day of driving across a combination of bitumen and off-road to get to the base. Taking some footage, I managed to crash my drone into the side of a mountain but happily it bounced off and seemed like nothing had happened. I found a place to park on iOverlander (amazing app for finding camp sites for overlanders) and settled in for the night in amongst sheep, dogs and chickens. It was extremely cold at nearly 4,000m in altitude in stark contrast to earlier that morning when I went down to nearly sea level and the thermometer hit 37C.
Off adventuring on my own again through central Colombia in search of snow and glaciers
Cleaning the tires near Los Nevados National Park
Driving up into the clouds. Camp would be made at around 4,000 metres above sea level shortly after this was taken
There’s an easy way and a hard way to get to Nevado del Ruiz. I’ll let you take a guess which I chose
Finally getting excited about getting out the drone to capture some of the stunning scenery. 30 minutes later I crashed it into one of these rock walls but it recovered itself and with no damage thankfully
El Siphon: This was where I got my dinner that evening
El Siphon ‘campground’: Found as one of the only camps marked on iOverlander in the area, it was a great spot to rest for the night with Maribel, the owner, making a decent dinner accompanied by aguapanela (a local drink that’s really good to keep you warm in the cold)
Sunrise outside El Siphon
The volcano itself is in a National Park and can only be accessed with a guide. I was waiting in the morning when the rangers were arriving and was joined by a few other cars (local tourists) who had come in the easy way in their sedans and hatchbacks. I learned that the reason it was guided and that we couldn’t go too close to the peak was that the volcano was active and as recently as 1985, had erupted and caused the death of 25,000 in the nearby town of Armeno.
As we climbed in our cars to a peak elevation of around 4,500m, the vegetation disappeared and the surroundings appeared as though we were on the moon, essentially just rocks and grey volcanic dust. It was a landscape that I hadn’t seen before and enjoyed driving (slowly) through in my car. At this altitude, the thin air starves the car of oxygen just like a person. My understanding is that you lose 3% of power for every 1,000 feet above sea level so at this point, I estimated my car was only producing 56% of its usual power.
The entry to Los Nevados National Park
Climbing up Nevado del Ruiz
This is the highest point I’ve driven so far - 4,454 metres according the Garmin
Looked like the surface of the moon
The volcano peak and glacier are in the background behind the car. This is as close as you’re allowed in recent times. They are worried about safety given this is an active volcano with a history of killing many in the area
In front of the Nevado del Ruiz peak
Medellin:
While Expedition Marooned were still waiting for parts, my next goal as to see what I could of Medellin before it was time to hit the road. Conveniently I learned right as I was leaving Nevado del Ruiz that my friend Margot was there and she gave me the name of the place she was staying and I hit the road. Traffic was chaotic entering Medellin and I eventually arrived well after dark which is something I try to avoid where possible.
In all, I would spend only around four days in Medellin which is much less than planned. I don’t’ feel like I got to know the city at all which is a bit of a shame as I was intending to give it a whole month. Unfortunately, my time in Bogota ate that time. I loved Medellin from what I saw. I can’t offer any great depth in my judgements of the city given my short stay but I’m sure I would come to like it as much as Bogota if I had the same time to acquaint myself with it and the local guides I was lucky enough to have in Bogota. I shall return.
The major activity I did in Medellin was the Comuna 13 tour, exploring the area and getting to know a little of its history. In short, the borough was a stronghold for drug cartels (controlled by Pablo Escobar) and was known for having the one the world’s highest murder rates 20 years ago and before. In 2002, the President mounted an offensive on the neighbourhood with over 1,000 police and military and supported by helicopters firing haphazardly into the houses. The offensive resulted in many casualties of innocent people and was criticised as a result. But it is also my understanding that it is generally regarded as a turning point in the war on the cartels and the violence in Colombia.
Today, Comuna 13 has reinvented itself and is a vibrant and thriving community. Escalators installed let residents traverse the steep terrain of the area to do their shopping and other chores while residents have ready access to publicly provided Wi-Fi. It is now safe and thriving with a vibrant music and arts scene and is an amazing story of transformation in a relatively very short period of time.
Overlooking Comuna 13
These guys were really good. Hip hop has become a means of expression for the people of Comuna 13 with several notable rappers coming out of the area (just not notable enough for me to remember which ones)
Playing reggaeton of course
Couple are supposed to get photos in front of this mural kissing. I just took a photo of it
A communal gym looking out of the neighbourhood
These are the two major Medellin football teams (Deportivo Independiente Medellín & Atletico Nacional)
Otherwise, I spent my time with friends (Margot, Gabe, Andrew) and exploring some of the city. Notable mentions from my brief time there:
Exploring El Poblado, the very gentrified centre for travellers filled with modern and funky bars, restaurants and nightclubs
Spending some time with my good friend Margot, catching up on tales since we’d last seen each other and comparing notes on our Colombian romances
Meeting up with Mick, a fellow Australian and friend I had previously met in Brazil, who has now moved to Medellin. It was both good to catch up but also to get a feel for what life is like as an expat living in Medellin (hint: lots of fun)
A big night out with Gabe (past hitchhiker and friend from the US who travelled with me in Guatemala and Bogota) and his friend Andrew and staying out late partying in El Poblado
Having my storage expanded with a custom chequer plate roof top storage box I had made while I was there
Jorge (the hostel owner who was an absolute champ and who gave me a lot of hugs), Margot (my French friend) and I
Mick, a friend I made in Brazil on a past trip, who recently moved to Medellin and has an envious life as a freelance journalist and frequently travelling around South America for work and play
A trip to the movies at Cine Colombia with Margot. Funnily, of the 12 people in the cinema, we were the only ones left by the end of The House That Jack Built
Myself, Margot and Jorge. Jorge had a bad habit of feeding me shots of agurdiente, even when he knew I was just about to get in the car and drive all night
Carlos working on my roof top storage box
I dropped my roof top tent and gas and water carriers all back about 6 inches to make room for more storage up front. It may seem foolish to some readers how excited I am about a box but storage and easy access of the right equipment is such an important aspect to overlanding
Carlos the fabricator and the local Land Rover mechanic Andres helping me secure the box to the roof rack
During my time in Medellin, and several times previously on this trip, I’ve been asked if I had a terminal illness and was that the reason for embarking on this adventure. I feel bad for these people, who’s comments clearly indicate they think that dreams aren’t able to be realised unless you’re on your death bed - that a crazy adventure like this could only be a knee jerk reaction to your imminent death. Yes, I am lucky to be living the life I want to but that was a decision that I made and I fought and worked hard to make it a reality. And should I actually be unlucky enough to get terminal illness or simply have a sudden realisation of my impending eventual death, I won’t suddenly jump into a crazy adventure in the middle of that illness to justify my time on earth. I’ll be at peace with the life I have lived, knowing that I took the opportunities when they were there and when I could enjoy them. There’s a Land Rover slogan: “One life, live it”, and I’m doing just that.
Courtesy of the Defender 90 driven by Santiago Andrade of Quito
Guatape:
I’d heard so many good things about Guatape (only two hours drive from Medellin) that I had to include it on my itinerary. It’s a charming area in the countryside and was even the preferred home for Pablo Escobar which is saying something given his immense wealth and therefore choice of where to live. The area was flooded in the 1960’s as part of a hydro-electric project and it seems to have worked for the area, creating many waterfront properties, waterways and places to boat and swim.
The main attraction there is the Piedra del Penol, a large stone that defiantly juts out from the landscape of rolling hills. It’s hard to imagine how such an out of place rock geologically came to be there.
I would have spent more time in the town itself were it not for the friendly hostel I was recommended on the outskirts. Lake House, run by a guy name Dennis and owned by his brother, it was an idyllic waterfront property and seemed to attract a particular kind of group – those on overland adventures such as myself. Dennis provided me with a couple of fishing rods and I spent the afternoon by the water with a couple cold ones trying to catch bass (which the locals incorrectly refer to as ‘trucha’ or trout). He was an outstanding cook and by evening we drank together and watched NBA finals. He even knew the area well that my family in the United States is from and I found it bizarre to be in a small country town in Colombia talking to a guy about local fishing spots in an obscure part of rural Wisconsin.
Self-explanatory really, isn’t it
Overlooking the main township of Guatape
Jolene in front of the Piedra de Penol
The amazing view from the Piedra. The water seen here is caused by the dam that was constructed in 1960’s. I’m sure the results of flooding an area by building a dam aren’t usually as successful as in this case
Lake Hotel in Gautape. I can’t recommend this place enough to anyone driving across Colombia. Prepare to be welcomed with open arms and fed really well. And there’s supposedly bass in that lake … i just didn’t catch any
Finally Headed South Again:
Soon enough, I’d got word that my roof top box was ready and that Andy and MH were hitting the road. I didn’t get my timing perfect and the box wasn’t ready until near on 9pm. But determined to catch up with my friends, I drove through the night arriving in Pereira at 4am, checked into a really cheap hotel for about four or five hours for some sleep, got up and drove on towards Popoyan to meet them.
With the convoy back together, we set our destination as Santuario de Las Lajas on the southern border with Ecuador. On the drive south I had passed through Popoyan, Cali and Pasto; all of which had I had some intention to visit. But as time was running out on my visa and I was keen to cover some miles with Expedition Marooned, the only small regret was for skipping Cali out of three of them, which looked to be a really nice city as I passed through it.
Las Lajas seemed like an essential stop on that passage south into Ecuador. It was good to see but at the end of the day, it was still just another church, albeit very awkwardly and impressively constructed in the middle of a canyon. After the obligatory tourist pics we went in search of a campsite overlooking the church by night. We found an accommodating local (if only his dogs were remotely as welcoming) with a great view of the church and made camp. My evening was pretty well ruined by an unpleasant work conversation with my ex-business partner that took up a good portion my evening but at least I was able to enjoy the vista of the church and in all its tacky glory as its evening lights came on.
Routine morning fluid checks before hitting the road on our way south
Fact: MH loves llamas
Yeah, I suppose they’re pretty cool
MH in front of Sanctuario de Las Lajas
Las Lajas by night. These lights changed colour like tacky Christmas decorations
Crossing into Ecuador:
The Colombia - Ecuador border crossing at Ipiales was a treat. Probably the easiest border I’ve crossed since Canada into the US. Only one service window and only dealing with one person (rather than the usual four or five) and probably close to an hour in all (rather than the three it often takes to get a temporary import permit).
Having started early to cross the border, we drove through much of the day to get to our day’s target destination called Lake Mojanda, which we reached by late afternoon. It was a treat to find the roads wet, muddy and ready for low gear. Like kids, Andy and I jumped in as our wheels spun and the cars bounced over the terrain. Andy even got his LR3 stuck going through a mud rut that was completely unnecessary to get where we were going and required me to pull him out. We followed the contour of the lake along the muddy road, enjoying the views and giving our cars a workout again.
Andy almost making it out of the mud rut but eventually needing a little hand. MH not amused because there was no need to be in there in the first place, he just wanted to get a little dirty
Lake Mojanda out to the right and fun straight ahead
Unfortunately, it was at this time his suspension issued reared its ugly head again and I heard over the radio from MH saying the car had sat down again and that they’d “need a little time”. In the dark and the mud, Andy pulled out his compressor unit (probably for the 15th time) to see what was wrong and didn’t appear to be as bad as the last issue. It was still holding pressure so we tried to trick the car’s height sensors by jacking up the front and back to different heights to see if the car would fix itself (apparently this has worked for him before). The jacking was to no avail, we popped tents and slept right there on the trail.
The next day, MH and I would head down off the mountain together to leave Andy to try to work it out while we gave the Land Rover group another distress call. This time it was Santiago (my new Ecuadorian friend who’s house I’m writing this blog from) answered and told us of a Quito mechanic and a tow truck that we could use to get to there. While MH and I waited for the tow truck, eventually Andy showed up in town having made a temporary fix – at least enough to get down off the mountain.
“Want a beer MH?” … “yes please” … meanwhile Andy is lying in the mud pulling his compressor unit off … again
Pro-tip: large plastic bags come in handy when you’re otherwise lying in the mud
While not an ideal camp spot, not a terrible one either. With some minor levelling required with the use of this rock, I had a terrific nights sleep here on the trail beside Lake Mojanda
And then we woke up to this pretty spectacular view
I drove behind the tow truck with the Expedition Marooned crew as passengers and a couple hours later we’d arrived in Quito at the Faconza workshop (a place I would come to know very well). Being a Sunday, there wasn’t much to do but wait for the shop to open in the morning. However, the owner Alex was good enough to open the gates for us and let us stay the night and sleep in our tents within the workshop. I’ll be honest, it was absolutely brilliant to ‘camp’ amongst a couple dozen Defenders and Discovery’s and we used the time there to fix broken equipment, repack the cars and fiddle as we pleased with the benefit of a clean work floor and away from the elements.
Second tow truck for Expedition Marooned in as many weeks
Safely delivered to Quito’s best Land Rover mechanic - Faconza. Thanks to Alex for opening on Sunday and letting us sleep in the workshop
You couldn’t ask for a better place to spend the night when you’ve got to re-pack the car and fix some broken gear
After a night in the workshop we would part ways again. For the second time, I’d leave Expedition Marooned marooned while they waited for parts to arrive. In the morning, my cousin Alex from the US would join me. Together, we would embark on and adventure into the Ecuadorian Amazon … which is a story for another post.
